Note: the Rhino Rack on the roof has since been cut down by about 8"
I've been getting some questions about how I mounted the Rhino Rack Pioneer on the roof. The reason I didn't wait for the backbone system to be released or just opt for the Maximus-3 system was two-fold:
Those systems were very expensive
I don't intend to carry much weight, and therefore need less support
My other criteria was simply that the rack sit very low to the roof (ultimately, the top of the rack was 2.5" over the highest point on the roof) and that I must still be able to remove the freedom panels. Here is the process I followed to install this rack:
Materials I Used
Rhino Rack Pioneer Platform 52x56
Rhino Rack RTC Tracks (x2)
RTC track nuts, sourced from a local dealer (x8)
Drill, various bits, tape measure
Angle grinder, cutting blade and polishing flap disc
Miter saw with metal-cutting blade
Washers for Track bolts
Lock nuts for Track bolts
Square tube or similar spacer system
M6 bolts (length depends on the square tube or spacer height)
Washers and lock washers for M6 bolts
Process
1. Cut the RTC tracks
I chose to mount the RTC tracks on top of the channels on the roof (see picture). The sole reason I choose this route was because of the space afforded on the inside of the cab. By mounting the track on top of the channels, I would have room to attach a large washer and lock nut on the inside of the cab and those attachments, sitting in the recess of the channels, would be roughly flush with the remainder of the cab.
These tracks were cut to size using a miter saw with a metal-cutting blade. Remember to allow for room for the rubber end caps when measuring for a size to cut.
2. Mount the RTC tracks
Note: I found this easier and less-messy with the roof removed.
I drilled 6 evenly-spaced holes along the mounting area on the roof (per track). Sliding 6 of the provided bolts through the bottom of the RTC, and after dabbing some silicone in the holes, those bolts ran through the drilled holes and a washer and lock nut was attached beneath. Note: consider the location of the rubber end caps when selecting drill points. Re-check your work 3x before drilling.
This left a considerable amount of additional bolt hanging down into the cab. I cut the excess length with an angle grinder blade, then used a steel polishing flap disc to smooth out the rough ends. The tracks are now a permanent fixture on the roof.
Lastly, I attached Sound Assassin strips between these bolts on the interior of the roof and then Hothead Headliners. These headliners easily covered all of the bolts; you would never know the tracks were attached on the interior of the truck.
3. Relocate Pioneer Crossbars
After assembling the Rhino Rack Pioneer, it was clear that, in order to mount the rack exactly where I wanted it, I needed to relocate the crossbars to ensure they overlapped with the previously-mounted tracks. I marked new locations and drilled 4 easy holes, then moved the crossbars closer to the center.
Though the bars are closer together than they were originally, it provides plenty of support for my purposes and doesn't move in the wind.
4. Attach Square Tube or Spacers, Then The Rack
Before reading, keep in mind that Rhino Rack sells "feet" that could be used for this installation and would certainly make for an easier (although likely more expensive) build.
Begin by cutting the square tube. I purchased punched square tube from Home Depot, so there were already holes drilled every inch. I cut 4 sections of tube that each contained 3 holes. The center hole would attach the tube to the rack, and the other 2 holes would attach the tube to the tracks.
Optional: now is the time to paint the square tube, or any other solution you are using for mounting.
Optional: if you intend to mount lighting as I did, now is the time to drill and attach those lights.
I measured the distance between the tracks on the truck, then replicated that distance when attaching small square tube cut-outs on the rack crossbars. I used 1" square tube and about a 50mm M6 for each to attach the feet (square tube). I used a 1" square tube after measuring to ensure I could squeeze some lighting between the rack and the top of the roof. I wanted a low profile position that was still high enough for me to access and remove the front freedom panels.
However, before tightening down the bolts attaching the square tube to the rack, I ran 2 M6 bolts through the square tube's two exposed holes for each of the 4 and then loosely attached the track nuts. It's important to do this first, or else you won't be able to fit these 8 bolts between the Pioneer slats and the square tube itself. With these 8 bolts roughly in place, I again measured for proper square tube positioning and tightened down these 8 bolts.
I then slid the rack onto the tracks from the front, ensuring the track nuts entered the track appropriately, and tightened down all 8 of the exposed M6 bolts. The rack was now attached.
Again, when selecting bolts here, keep in mind the required bolt length (thickness of surfaces + spacer + some extra) and also factor-in any additional considerations such as washers, lock washers, etc.
5. Light Bar Mounting
I ordered a Rhino Rack light bar mount, but discovered upon receipt that it only allows a maximum of a ~40-42" light bar. I wanted a ~51-52" bar, which would cover nearly the entire width of the rack.
To get around this, I picked up some steel flat bar from Home Depot, cut it and drilled it such that it allowed me to mount the bar to two of the Pioneer rack slats, and allow for the light bar mount to attach to the flat bar. The purpose here was to widen the area between which a light bar could be mounted.
Before installation, I painted with self-etching primer and satin black spray paint.
6. Wiring
This depends on how many lights you've got, but I wanted to keep things easily traceable. I wanted my light bar to operate on a separate circuit from the side-facing lights. Therefore, I ran two series of wire through the roof into the cab and down along the trim through the firewall and into the engine bay.
I attached two series of disconnects in this wiring. First, disconnects between the rack and where the wiring enters the cab. This exists so that I can connect the wiring and remove the rack, if necessary, without cutting any wire.
Where the wiring ran through the roof, I placed rubber gaskets with interior holes perfectly sized for the wires running through. To ensure a perfect fit, I added some shrink tubing. Gaskets are secured in the roof with silicone and glue.
Additionally, I attached disconnects inside of the cab. This exists so that I can disconnect the wiring in the roof and remove the roof without cutting any wire. This wiring could easily be hidden, but was even easier as I had JCR Molle Panels installed.
7. Satellite Radio Relocation
I have a separate write-up on this. With a Rhino Rack installed, your SiriusXM will no longer properly work. I would highly suggest reading what I wrote about this and how I remedied the situation. See this post here.