I paid a company in Denver $400 for a chrome delete on my WK2. I then paid something like $700 for a hood and tailgate wrap on Tacoma. Even thinking about that now makes me queasy. I didn't do it myself because it seemed to difficult, but I wanted to tackle it myself on the JT to save money.
In total, I wrapped the grille, hood, all four doors, and tailgate for a couple hundred bucks. It was a painful process initially, but I quickly learned some very important strategies that had me finishing a door wrap in hardly more than an hour.
Materials
Initially, I started with VViVID vinyl. I wrapped the grille and it went OK, mostly. I then tried to wrap the hood and it took three attempts before I gave up. Each attempt took me 3-4 hours. It was awful. It was just one finger (crease) after another, and there was no end in sight. I learned shortly after the Avery vinyl is much easier to use. People, I'm telling you, it isn't just easier to use, it is the only usable wrap out there. Not only was Avery's Matte Black actually matte (VVIVID's matte was clearly more of a satin), it was far more flexible and malleable.
YouTube
Christian (CK Wraps) does a great job explaining wrap techniques. He definitely gives off a bit of a bro vibe and his overuse of the word 'actually' actually drives me nuts. But, he's damn good at wrapping. I wouldn't even consider ordering any vinyl without first watching a handful of his videos (note: they're all really long) to figure out if the contours in what you intend to wrap are simple enough that you can handle them. With the truck, the grille and hood had some angles, but the doors and tailgate are all flat, so they weren't going to be all that difficult.
A Few Strategies
Test First: Never take a huge slab of vinyl and just go for it. Account for some decent-sized pieces you can test out first. It'll give you a necessary feel for the vinyl and how to manipulate, stretch, heat, cut, etc.
Clean Everything: I hate this part, because I just like to jump into projects without prep, but this cost me a fair amount of time. If the smallest little crumb of dirt ends up on the surface or attached the vinyl, it will never go away. Worse, if you lift the vinyl and try to scratch it off, it can fracture into numerous pieces. My first door wrap had to be started over because of this.
Remove Everything You Can: On my hood, I removed the louvers, hinges, wiper fluid sprayers, and stock Rubicon decal. On the doors, I removed the weatherstripping, door handle, etc. Whatever you can get out of the way, get it out of the way. Even bumps like keyholes can give you small headaches in terms of getting a perfectly flat surface that avoids unnecessary curvature.
Avoid Folds At All Costs: If the vinyl is rolled, meaning there aren't any sharp angles, you're good. If you fold it and it kinds of binds up in one area, there's a good chance you can heat it out with a heat gun, but an equal chance you just screwed up the wrap.
Begin With An Achor: Lay out the wrap and use your squeegee to stick the wrap down in a central location, then work out to the edges from there.
Recesses: Different sizes require different approaches, but heating ahead of time can allow the wrap to stretch into the recess (think door handle recesses).
Fingers: When you encounter fingers or small lines, pull the wrap both both hands in opposing directions to flatten them. If you fold the wrap over itself, heat it out. If you reach an edge where you can't release the fingers, apply some heat and stretch; they'll be gone in seconds.
Cutting: Practice the living crap out of this. Rare were my perfectly cut edges. The tendency is to leave excess vinyl around edges but that really only hurts adhesion. Again, watch some videos to learn more about what's appropriate.
Heat: Generally speaking, if you screw something up, you can heat it out. I was constantly applying heat with Vvivid, but only in some rare cases did I do it with Avery vinyl; it was that easy to use.
Heat After Install: Don't skip this. You need to run heat over the entire wrap to release air. It's important to apply enough pressure to get the air out ahead of time with squeegeeing, but if you didn't, you'll see this heating process will uncover some bubbles of air and you'll need to release those. It essentially acts as a means of sticking the vinyl to the surface more firmly.
When I put my gear together for wrapping, I had gloves (essential), a squeegee (essential), an exacto knife (essential) and a few other things like knifeless tape that I hardly used. I already had a heat gun, isopropyl alcohol for cleaning, etc. In fact, I actually had a pretty difficult time using knifeless tape, so I gave up on that early.
The point is that it doesn't require much equipment and it's something you can certainly figure out if you do sufficient research.
Komen